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Best The Ogre: Biography of a mountain and the dramatic story of the first ascent By Doug Scott

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The Ogre: Biography of a mountain and the dramatic story of the first ascent-Doug Scott

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Some mountains are high; some mountains are hard. Few are both.On the afternoon of 13 July 1977, having become the first climbers to reach the summit of the Ogre, Doug Scott and Chris Bonington began their long descent. In the minutes that followed, any feeling of success from their achievement would be overwhelmed by the start of a desperate fight for survival. And things would only get worse.Rising to over 7,000 metres in the centre of the Karakoram, the Ogre – Baintha Brakk – is notorious in mountaineering circles as one of the most difficult mountains to climb. First summited by Scott and Bonington in 1977 – on expedition with Paul ‘Tut’ Braithwaite, Nick Estcourt, Clive Rowland and Mo Anthoine – it waited almost twenty-four years for a second ascent, and a further eleven years for a third. The Ogre, by legendary mountaineer Doug Scott, is a two-part biography of this enigmatic peak: in the first part, Scott has painstakingly researched the geography and history of the mountain; part two is the long overdue and very personal account of his and Bonington’s first ascent and their dramatic week-long descent on which Scott suffered two broken legs and Bonington smashed ribs. Using newly discovered diaries, letters and audio tapes, it tells of the heroic and selfless roles played by Clive Rowland and Mo Anthoine. When the desperate climbers finally made it back to base camp, they were to find it abandoned – and themselves still a long way from safety.The Ogre is undoubtedly one of the greatest adventure stories of all time.

Book The Ogre: Biography of a mountain and the dramatic story of the first ascent Review :



Two things I wish I had known before purchasing: half of the book is spent on a very shallow summary/review of the history of the region, rather than the actual climb, and it's so badly written as to be painful to read, as well as completely incoherent in many places.Half of the book is given over to a centuries-skimming summary of the history of the area. If you've never heard of Marco Polo or the Silk Road, this may interest you, although it is written as flat summary and has the feel of a high-school book report. If you purchased this on the promise of the dramatic account of his descent, with Chris Bonington, after breaking both legs, be aware you're paying a lot of money for what is essentially a short story about mountaineering attached to a history summary.The writing is truly awful. Scott doesn't like commas, resulting in sentences that run on in dull blocks. He also struggles with the basics of grammar. Consider this line describing the East India Company's concern on finding that Napoleon had suggested a joint Franco-Russian invasion to the Tsar: "The East India Company and the British Government had heard many rumours about Russian designs on India which had largely been discounted due to the distances involved and the harsh terrain that would have to be crossed, but now, with the support of a military genius, the company was galvanised into action." If the military genius being referred to is Napoleon, he was definitely not supporting the company! (This sentence also gives you an idea of the general stodginess of the description and the and desperate need for commas.) The bad-book-report-in-need-of-proofreading feel is only compounded by Scott's references to his sources: "All this is well written up in Peter Hopkirk's book The Great Game. There the reader will know of the valiant efforts during 1810 of Captain Charles Christie..." Does Scott mean "will learn of" or "can read more about"? (Hopkirk's book is fantastic, by the way.)Once you're used to puzzling out Scott's inaccurate use of phrases and antecedents, you still must tackle sentences like "The British involvement in India moved on a stage into the British Raj." I don't know what that means, but am not sure it means anything.The half of the book given over to the climb is just as leaden in terms of writing; when it comes to the team members he gives up altogether and presents bold-faced names and a CV summary: "Chris [Bonington] apart from many other obligations is a trustee of the Nick Estcourt Award and the patron of Community Action Nepal" doesn't give you much sense of Bonington!The story proper begins about 55% of the way through the book and is the worst-written adventure account I have ever read. Scott is unquestionably brave and I very much wish he had had the good sense to hire a ghost writer to help him make this account as gripping as it ought to be. This is ridiculously overpriced considering that less than half of it is worth reading, and even that is uphill work.
The first half of the book is geology and history, and though some of it is interesting, it's very superficial. If one really wanted the geology and history, they'd do better to read a geologist or historian. The second half of the book describes the perilous descent that is the point of the book, but the writing is so inept, I have little understanding of what happened. In addition, the book contains list after list of climbers and their achievements. Surely the accomplishments are important to them, but who else could possibly care?

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Best The Ogre: Biography of a mountain and the dramatic story of the first ascent By Doug Scott Rating: 4.5 Diposkan Oleh: kellimal

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